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Wavelength Sept!

Posted on September 10, 2010 - Filed Under Future Fins | By

Hey Guys

As you know I’m back in Ireland now, and Wavelength have graced me with a cover shot, thanks lads:

They also featured an article I wrote about Western Oz, following me and Tom Lowe from when arrived through to me leaving for Tahiti:

The last few years with Micky have always been fairly full on, as Mick always knows how to make the most out of swells, we would be chasing swells down south until right before the swell run up north. That would mean a quick 20 hour drive straight there. It is an easy enough drive but feels like jet lag when you arrive, after being inn the car for so long. This year we were ready to get out of Margs, so we set off nice and early and ended up taking four days to get to Gnaraloo! It was great having no stress and taking in the views of the drive.

So we travelled up in our old trusty Land Cruiser “Poo Log”. It’s brown, in case you’re wondering, we leave it at Tom’s uncle’s house in Perth every year, so she is there waiting for us when we return. Neil is such a legend for taking care of the beast, he services it for us and fixes any bits we have broken along the road. They are the best 4X4 trucks, a true workhorse; I would love one back at home. It’s not fast but she will always get you there and you don’t have to worry about hitting animals on the road etc. Thankfully we did not hit any, but it was like a kangaroo massacre the whole way north, every thirty seconds there was another roo getting its eyes picked out.

We met Camel down in Margaret’s where he is the local legend. He is a 37-year-old grommet, I have never met someone more dedicated to surfing and he does it just for the love. He spends the whole day everyday at the beach and still froths on every kind of wave. He is a true guru, he has so much experience and knows all there is to know about swells, waves, boards, fins etc. I learned so much off Camel especially about the fins, he is really into Future Fins who I have recently starting riding for so it was great.

We had three swells while we were up there. The first one was huge, some people were saying the biggest ever. It was a solid 10 to 12 feet and the sets were non stop, but the problem was the the 12 footers were shit, the reef really only likes the six to eight foot ones.

I want to give a big shout out to all the guys we had the pleasure of surfing and hanging out with up in Gnaraloo, the people we met along the road made the trip for me. See you next time lads Yew!!

Check out the full article in the latest Wavelength.



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